Rabbits are not rodents. You read that correctly! We often tend to group them with rats, mice, and guinea pigs, but rabbits belong to their own order: Lagomorpha. Although they share certain similarities, there are important anatomical differences—particularly in their dentition.

Many people consider adopting a rabbit because they mistakenly believe their care is easier or less demanding than that of a more “traditional” companion animal like a dog or cat. Don’t make that mistake.

First, rabbits have a longer life expectancy than small rodents—typically 7 to 10 years. They are generally not recommended for families with young children due to their timid nature and fragile skeletons—accidents can happen quickly.

While you won’t need to take them outside for bathroom breaks, you should plan to spend time every day cleaning their enclosure, preparing their meals, and providing routine care (such as nail trims and brushing). Rabbits also need daily time outside their cage to exercise, which means your home must be adapted to ensure it is safe for these curious animals that naturally love to chew.

Rabbits are typically gentle and calm. With patience and proper socialization, they can enjoy interacting with you and appreciate affection. Watching them hop, groom themselves, and nibble never gets old.

Now, where is the best place to get a rabbit? Baby rabbits are often available in many pet stores. Unfortunately, these rabbits are frequently sold at a very young age and may be more susceptible to infections, such as respiratory disease caused by the bacterium Pasteurella.

There are responsible breeders who offer older rabbits and can provide sound advice. Better yet, consider checking with animal shelters first, as they often have rabbits available for adoption.

In a carefully prepared and secure environment, some rabbits can live freely indoors, much like a cat. However, most owners choose to provide a cage or exercise pen. The enclosure should measure at least 4 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft (1.2 m x 60 cm x 60 cm). Your rabbit should be able to take three consecutive hops in one direction, and their ears should not touch the top of the enclosure when standing upright.

The bottom of the cage should not be wire and must be covered with bedding (such as shavings) or towels. Rabbits do not have paw pads and are prone to irritation known as pododermatitis (sore hocks). Softwood shavings made from conifers (such as pine) should be avoided, as they release volatile compounds that can irritate the respiratory system and be harmful to the liver. Aspen or poplar shavings, as well as recycled paper bedding, are good options.

Rabbits can be litter trained fairly easily, which makes cleaning much easier.

Rabbits themselves do not have a strong odor. However, like all animals, their waste can produce an unpleasant smell. Proper enclosure maintenance is key to controlling odors.

Depending on the size of the cage and the type of bedding used, you should plan to replace the bedding every two days and perform a thorough cleaning once a week. Rabbit urine contains calcium, which tends to build up on plastic surfaces. The best solution is to use vinegar during cleaning, followed by a thorough rinse.

Carrots? Not at all!

Rabbits must have access to high-quality hay at all times. This fiber-rich food is essential for proper digestive function and for natural tooth wear. Timothy hay best meets the needs of adult rabbits. Alfalfa hay is high in calcium and should be reserved for growing rabbits.

Vegetables are an excellent source of fiber and vitamins and should be offered daily. Choose leafy greens such as leaf lettuce, arugula, fresh herbs, and carrot tops. Other vegetables, such as carrots and bell peppers, may be offered in small amounts. To help prevent urinary issues, avoid high-calcium foods (such as broccoli) and spinach.

Fruits contain sugar, which can disrupt the digestive flora. They should be considered treats and given in small quantities. Because rabbits are sensitive to dietary changes, introduce only one new food at a time in small amounts and monitor stool consistency closely.

Their diet may also be supplemented with rabbit pellets in small quantities: about 1/8 cup per day for a 5.5 lb (2.5 kg) adult rabbit. While pellets are highly palatable, overfeeding can lead to obesity as well as dental and digestive problems. Mixed pellets containing seeds or dried fruit are not recommended.

Going away for a few days? Arrange for someone to care for your rabbit and ensure a consistent supply of hay. Being deprived of food can have serious consequences for them.

Although rabbits are social animals, it’s impossible to predict whether they will get along with a new companion. Pairing two unneutered males can lead to fighting, and housing an unspayed female with an unneutered male will quickly result in babies. There’s a reason people say “breeding like rabbits”!

It is not recommended to house a rabbit with a guinea pig, as guinea pigs are sensitive to a bacterium (Bordetella) that rabbits commonly carry. Cats and dogs are natural predators, while rabbits are prey animals—so the risk of injury is always present.